Croatia may not seem the obvious destination for a year-old, but after lots of hard work last year, I was after indulgence, relaxation β and sobriety. A good friend, Bobby, is Croatian and after hearing him talk about lobster spaghetti, sunshine and rocky beaches, my best friend Pippa and I were keen to check it out, though we vowed we'd rise and sleep early all week β quite a commitment.
First stop was Dubrovnik, once a rival to Venice. We were staying only one night, in the swanky Hotel Excelsior , so headed straight to the old town in search of that famed spaghetti. After two glasses of very good local wine in a charming bar, we forgot all about the pasta mission. Instead, we had some ice-cream from a stall and lost ourselves within the city walls.
This city is used as a backdrop in many a film requiring medieval architecture, and we couldn't help feeling a bit guilty that our husbands weren't with us β it is one of the most romantic places I've been. Next morning, we set off for the island of Hvar. You can fly, but we opted for a drive along the coast and a ferry. This was the most memorable and beautiful part of the trip: the crystal-clear Adriatic, the rocky, meandering landscape. The boat was packed, with a lot of Italians and, surprisingly, Americans.
It seems we Brits are a little slow on the uptake when it comes to Croatia's treats. We disembarked at Stari Grad, its harbour crammed full of huge yachts, to be greeted by a woman who announced: "Welcome to the party island! The old town of Hvar is charming. St Stephen's Square is a portside hub of activity, surrounded by bars and restaurants, and narrow, winding streets lead away from the seafront; further back from the shore, the hills are lined with medieval walls built to protect the inhabitants from pirates how exciting!
Pippa and I knew that our search for lobster spaghetti was on, so we checked into our hotel, the Adriana , and ventured into town. Having been to Ibiza, I was expecting this "party island" to be a similar scene of madness, but Hvar is much more civilised. We even managed our promised early night. Early the next morning we took a yoga class by the beach, and spent the rest of the day reading by the sea. That evening we had the best lobster spaghetti of the trip, served by a lovely waiter who insisted on Pippa wearing a bib.
